• Pre-Spring 2020
- February 11, 2020
For its PS20 collection, Salvatore Ferragamo is saturated by the unique sense of light, scale, space and colour drawn from the epic landscapes of New Mexico.
A new casualised sartorialism expressed in the supplest Nappa, suede and deerskin, as well as the finest silks and cotton voile, widens the aperture of luxury. Volumes are unexpected and arresting. Layering and pattern create a rich visual texture. Continuing the house’s “Patchwork of Characters” credo, this is a versatile and adaptable collection designed to be not exclusive but inclusive - clothes to compliment a truly modern perspective.
Creative Director Paul Andrew said: “Every year in July I visit the International Folk-Art Market (IFAM) in Santa Fe. To arrive there, you drive from Albuquerque through the most incredible country; it’s where the desert meets the mountains, and there are incredible colours everywhere shimmering in the dry, arid heat. That journey was the basis for this season’s palette and my emphasis on a reimagined wardrobe inspired by the desert: these are clothes built for travel, and heat, and pleasure.”
A micro pleated skirt in Santa Fe Sun yellow leather is paired with a black t-shirt featuring the house logo laser-etched in Vicuña Brown. A double-breasted short jacket is cut with a slouch that comes cinchable with an integrated belt. Shirt-stripes are deformalized for women and men via hooded djellaba tops, and shift shirts with origami folds featuring contra-striped logo detailing. The djellaba also informs a short-sleeved dress in wide striped sections of Cuoio, Mezcal Teal and Desert Coral.
A cropped satin bomber in Mezcal Teal is teamed with sharply cut trousers and shirting in Tyrone Turquoise (named after the New Mexican ghost town). Loose silk shirting, pants and full-skirted pleated dresses come double layered in two-tone abstract floral print to create a shimmering mirage effect. This season Salvatore Ferragamo revives its beachwear offer, with menswear trunks in two lengths, bikinis a swimsuit and silk mousseline pareo in a range of archive-inspired house scarf prints.
Accessories are fully integrated against the collection: fabrications used in the clothing, such as the shirt striping, incorporated into pieces of jewellery. A new house multi-pocket bag comes in mix-fabrications, including natural flax canvas lined with tanned Cuoio leather. Shoes include desert boots and Chelsea boots for woman and man, and richly coloured desert-tone sandals and pumps.
The menswear offer runs from desert-ready explorer wear - gabardine and suede outerwear and suede and/or cotton shirting, pants and shorts - to rugged and flexible tailoring pieces.